Press Reviews

It’s best, really, to ask someone who knows their stuff, and for over 25 years Domaine Direct has specialised in domaine-bottled wine. That is, wine bottled in the domaine of the person who made it (and quite probably who grew it), not something blended by a merchant. As a result, it has a selection of highly individual wines that inspire anything but cloth-tongued indifference, and at fair prices.

Often described as a “minefield” for the wine buyer, Burgundy has been on a roll recently…but it remains essential to stick to the best producers, and it is great to have a real specialist merchant who loves the area, carefully selecting wines. Domaine Direct does so for both famous estates and some real over-performing gems from underrated corners of the territiory.

Domaine Direct is one of the finest Burgundy specialists in the country and if you are remotely serious about wine then you should be on their mailing list.

Sensational Burgundy list; prices are very reasonable for the quality. Also the Burgundian-style Chardonnays from Australia’s Leeuwin Estate.

Prelude Vineyards Chardonnay 2007: A not-so-junior brother to the Art Series; while the vineyard block sources are different, this is a seriously elegant wine, marrying intensity and finesse on a notably long palate.

Art Series Shiraz 2007: 94 points - No question, this is the best Shiraz yet from Leeuwin Estate. Sourced from unirrigated fruit in a very good season, it was fermented in open fermenters with some whole bunches. It’s soft and fully ripe with smoky savoury fruit flavours. Soft and fleshy with a beautiful palate delivery.

Art Series Chardonnay 2006: 2006 Art Series is one of the very greatest vintages of one of Australia’s top Chardonnays ever made. On a world scale, this is as good as Chardonnay ever gets anywhere outside of Burgundy. It strikes the quintessential balance between control and concentration, power and finesse.

Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2004: 94 points. This is the best Leeuwin Cabernet released to date. The good thing is that results of a rejuvenation of this variety that started several years ago will continue to be seen. A powerful, linear wine of structure and style with ripe, pure Cabernet fruit displaying lovely blackcurrant and subtle leafiness.

Prelude Vineyards Cabernet Merlot 2003: Bright red. Peppery, herb-accented cherry and redcurrant aromas strongly suggest Bordeaux; tis doesn’t smell like it’s from a superripe vintage. Taut, light red berry and plum flavours are nicely focused and zesty, with fine-grained tannins adding structure. Finishes bright and crisp, with very good persistence and a lingering note of cherry pitt. Nice balance here.

Art Series Riesling 2008: 89 points - Fresh citrus and pear aromas are brightened by dusty minerals and a subtle floral quality. Offers brisk lemon-lime flavours and a note of talc, but finishes softer, with good spiciness, a note of tangerine and gentle mineral bite.

Prelude Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2008: At first sniff, it’s easy to dismiss this as just another nettly, grassy, me-too reductive Savvy blend. But persist and you’re rewarded with emerging hints of tropical fruits and a lovely creamy texture. A zingy match for fruits de mer and creamy fishy dishes.

Montagny Le Clou 2007, Domaine du Clos Salomon: From the white-only region of Montagny, this charmer boasts a nose full of striking, flinty minerality and interesting undertones of damp hay. It blossoms on the palate, showing flecks of minerality and a fine structure that supports the succulent fruit.

Rully 1er cru rouge Molesme 2007, Domaine Jean-Baptiste Ponsot: Young but fleshy, perky and bright. The red cherry fruit is generously weighted and supple, while there are pleasingly earthy lines running throughout. A twist of liquorice on the finish decorates and augments those inviting red fruits.

Pouilly-Fuissé Cuvée Première 2007, Domaine Cordier: Very rich, bright, lemony, creamy from southern Burgundy. Not too fat but very rewarding. Luscious but dry. Drink 2009-12

Chablis 1er cru Vaillons 2007, Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin: Lovely purity with green fruit flavours. Chardonnay at its most appetising, juicy and racy. So easy to love already. Drink 2009-14

Mâcon-Milly 2007, Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon: Lemony pale, with white peaches on the nose. Elegant, lifted fruit and a certain Mâcon fleshiness, but elegance and minerality dominate. A lovely wine.

Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2007, Laurent Tribut: A more forward style, showing just how pretty and floral Chablis can be in its youth, despite the obvious energy and quality of the vintage. Already opening up and looking desperately alluring.

Informal pre-Christmas family suppers. The following all stood out at recent tastings and are ideal for getting your eye in before the big day - Cheverny Blanc 2008, Pascal Bellier from the Loire is a fresh, elegant and unexpected blend of sauvignon blanc and chardonnay.