Press Reviews
Company Reviews
It’s best, really, to ask someone who knows their stuff, and for over 25 years Domaine Direct has specialised in domaine-bottled wine. That is, wine bottled in the domaine of the person who made it (and quite probably who grew it), not something blended by a merchant. As a result, it has a selection of highly individual wines that inspire anything but cloth-tongued indifference, and at fair prices.
Often described as a “minefield” for the wine buyer, Burgundy has been on a roll recently…but it remains essential to stick to the best producers, and it is great to have a real specialist merchant who loves the area, carefully selecting wines. Domaine Direct does so for both famous estates and some real over-performing gems from underrated corners of the territiory.
Domaine Direct is one of the finest Burgundy specialists in the country and if you are remotely serious about wine then you should be on their mailing list.
Sensational Burgundy list; prices are very reasonable for the quality. Also the Burgundian-style Chardonnays from Australia’s Leeuwin Estate.
Leeuwin Estate Reviews
Prelude Vineyards Chardonnay 2007: 95 points - This is the Chardonnay to which I now compare all others at this price. With its gorgeous, lush, green fruits, delightful exotic flavours of cinnamon, nutmeg and biscuits, its beautifully textured back palate and a finish that builds in flavour, this is a true prelude to the Art Series.
Art Series Shiraz 2007: 94 points - No question, this is the best Shiraz yet from Leeuwin Estate. Sourced from unirrigated fruit in a very good season, it was fermented in open fermenters with some whole bunches. It’s soft and fully ripe with smoky savoury fruit flavours. Soft and fleshy with a beautiful palate delivery.
Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2004: An incredibly fresh and vibrant bouquet of red fruit, intermingled with cassis, oak and a little fresh herb edge; the palate is very fleshy on entry, and tightens up on the long, ample and lively finish; good fruit sweetness, and the structure suggests a long and healthy life ahead.
Prelude Vineyards Cabernet Merlot 2003: Bright red. Peppery, herb-accented cherry and redcurrant aromas strongly suggest Bordeaux; this doesn’t smell like it’s from a superripe vintage. Taut, light red berry and plum flavours are nicely focused and zesty, with fine-grained tannins adding structure. Finishes bright and crisp, with very good persistence and a lingering note of cherry pitt. Nice balance here.
Art Series Riesling 2008: 89 points - Fresh citrus and pear aromas are brightened by dusty minerals and a subtle floral quality. Offers brisk lemon-lime flavours and a note of talc, but finishes softer, with good spiciness, a note of tangerine and gentle mineral bite.
Art Series Sauvignon Blanc 2009: Exceptionally fine and elegant rendition, capturing a delicate waft of passionfruit and stone fruit; perfectly balanced acidity.
Prelude Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2008: At first sniff, it’s easy to dismiss this as just another nettly, grassy, me-too reductive Savvy blend. But persist and you’re rewarded with emerging hints of tropical fruits and a lovely creamy texture. A zingy match for fruits de mer and creamy fishy dishes.
Art Series Chardonnay 2007: Firmer and tighter than last year’s ‘06, 2007 Art Series Chardonnay seems to have all of the attributes required to make it a must-have wine for any Chardonnay lover. There is finesse here and layers of fruit which peel away gently to reveala a golden core. It is a crime to drink it early, but we don’t mind a little flirting with the law!
Burgundy Reviews
Saint-Aubin 1er cru En Remilly 2008 Lamy: Lively, sprightly and full of youthful energy. Real grip and attack. Bright fruit – very zesty with real core and balance. Sleek with lots of pleasure but real density, too.
Montagny Le Clou 2007, Domaine du Clos Salomon: From the white-only region of Montagny, this charmer boasts a nose full of striking, flinty minerality and interesting undertones of damp hay. It blossoms on the palate, showing flecks of minerality and a fine structure that supports the succulent fruit.
Rully 1er cru rouge Molesme 2007, Domaine Jean-Baptiste Ponsot: Young but fleshy, perky and bright. The red cherry fruit is generously weighted and supple, while there are pleasingly earthy lines running throughout. A twist of liquorice on the finish decorates and augments those inviting red fruits.
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2007, Laurent Tribut: A more forward style, showing just how pretty and floral Chablis can be in its youth, despite the obvious energy and quality of the vintage. Already opening up and looking desperately alluring.
Viré-Clessé Clos du Château 2008, Christophe Cordier: Very forward and ripe for young Burgundy, with richness of fruit and toasty oak to the fore. But there’s also acidity, along with citrus, pear and apple flavours, and the oak’s not OTT. Good intro to Burgundy.
Meursault Les Luchets 2007, Domaine Roulot: Lovely, pure, complex fruit here. Very stylish with some class. Medium bodied, but well balanced and stylish in a tight, lean way. Attractive style. From 2010.
Chablis 1er cru Vaillons 2008, Billaud-Simon: Fresh apple and meringue. Expressive, forward style. Fine, pure and fruity. Excellent intensity of fruit with precise acidity and length. Delicious finish. 4 stars
Chablis 1er cru Vaillons 2008 Bernard Defaix: Buttery Vaillons, with taut, precise minerality. Racy, energetic, linear, but ripe fruit and good, long definition of flavours.
La 50/50 2008, Anne Gros et Jean-Paul Tollot: Burgundian couple Anne Gros and Jean Tollot, who work for a separate family estates, wanted to do a joint project, so they looked in the Midi and found superb old Carignan vines in Minervois. This has lovely spice with fresh peppery fruit, and a fresh finish. There is southern warmth, while retaining essential elegance.