1996

Reds

Continuing the decade’s exceptional run of high quality Côte d’Or red Burgundy vintages 1996 produced firm, deeply flavoured wines for medium to long term drinking. The dominant taste characteristics of 1996 Pinot Noir in Burgundy were essentially dictated by two spells of freak weather. First, a solid fortnight of 30+ degrees centigrade days at the start of June ensured perfect flowering and, its corollary, a large crop. Second, exceptional dry, clear September weather sent grape sugar levels soaring, as photosynthesis responded to luminously bright daylight. Temperatures remained chilly, however, and acidities scarcely budged. Harvest thus bought a most unusual combination for Burgundy: high sugars, high acids, high phenolic ripeness…and high yields. The bans de vendanges were proclaimed between 11th September (the Beaujolais) and 26th September (Hautes-Côtes); most domaines in the Côte d’Or, both north and south, were harvesting by 20th September.

Ripeness, natural acidity and colour being easy to come by, the only question mark concerns yields. Communal appellation limits, set at 52hl/hectare, were frequently exceeded where bunch thinning or green harvests were not carried out. But can classic Pinot Noir really be made at such high cropping levels? The jury is out (1999 is a more recent case to ponder) but some red 1996s will be found out with age to have more style than substance. Often paired with 1993, a Burgundy vintage with similarly high phenolic ripeness, 1996 abounds in notes of licorice, moka and chocolate, with additional red fruit acidity. Even now, nearly 7 years own, it is not clear whether the 1996s are following the classic slow-ageing curve of 1993. The abundant tannins and acidity are certainly allowing the most concentrated examples to age magnificently.