1999

Whites

By a compensation mechanism reminiscent of 1981/1982, nature followed 1998’s short, frost-hit Chardonnay crop with a production glut in 1999. A quick and successful flowering in the second week of June, approximately one week in advance, led to a bumper fruit set: both the number of bunches per vine and the berry count per bunch were high. Ripening such volumes of fruit required exceptional weather, and Burgundy’s three weeks of uninterrupted sunshine from 20th August to 10th September ensured at least tolerable sugar levels even for overyielding vines and splendid conditions for growers who had dropped crop during the summer. Harvesting began on 13/9 in the Mâconnais, 15/9 in the Côte d’Or and 22/9 in Chablis just as the weather finally turned. With heavy rainfall on the 20th, 23rd and 25th, growers raced to get this huge crop in before the onset of botrytis. In practice, the Côte de Beaune, Chalonnais and Mâconnaiswere virtually finished by the 23rd, although Chablis and the Hautes-Côtes paid a penalty for their later harvesting dates. The key characteristics of the crop - ripe but not overripe grapes, clean skins and pips, fluid, juicy flavours, adequate tartaric acidity, albeit little malic - ensured trouble-free vinification, allowing makers to retain rich, healthy lees throughout élevage adding depth and complexity to their wines. The best examples of the vintage reveal memorably pure flavours and fresh, floral notes evoking the 1979 or 1973 vintages. Top 1999 Côte de Beaune whites are mightily impressive, offering a long drinking window from 2003 onwards. Delicious, shorter-term Chalonnais and Mâconnais wines were also made in abundance. 1999 really was a vintage in which quantity and quality seemed to coexist.

Reds

One of Burgundy’s biggest-ever red wine crops (only 1982 was more productive). Pinot Noir, marked by exceptional ripeness and yields, prospered generally but the vintage hot spot was undoubtedly the southern Côte de Beaune: Pommard and Volnay turned in their best performance for a decade. The best Côte de Nuits wines are superstars too, but performance was more irregular there, penalised by late September rain. A quick and successful flowering in the second week of June, approximately one week in advance, led to a bumper fruit set. After heatwave conditions through late August and early September, harvesting began early, on 7th September in the Beaujolais, the 15th in the Chalonnais and on the Côte de Beaune, and the 18th on the Côte de Nuits. High sugars and fair acidity (weak malic but good tartaric levels) made for potentially exciting reds, in a rounder style than in 1996, but what really clinched success was the year’s fine phenolic ripeness. Strong colour pigment and smooth, extractible tannins added the firmness and texture which eluded the rich but less resonant 1997s. Bold, bright, and generously fruity, the best red 1999s manage to impress both casual drinkers and serious collectors.

How will this stunning vintage fare in the longer term? 1999 certainly comforts the view that quantity is not always the enemy of quality. Some great wines did undoubtedly get made at eye-popping 50hl/h+ yields, but overcropping claimed victims, too, at all appellation levels. Inevitably though, with their high natural sweetness, toothsome tannins and medium-low acidity, few 1999s will be given the chance to prove their ageworthiness. This is a shame as the better wines from this user-friendly vintage have magnificent potential.