This monopole (single-owner) grand cru is one of Burgundy`s half-dozen greatest red wine terroirs. Previously known as La Forge, the vineyard aquired its present name in 1141 when it was bought by the Bernadine female religious order, counterpoint of Cîteaux, based in Tart l`Abbaye (east of Dijon). The next change of ownership (650 years later), was in favour of Nicolas-Joseph Marey, beneficiary of so many forced land sales during the French Revolution. The third and final change, by auction in 1932, brought in its present owners, the Mâconnais-based Mommessin family. Guardian of this historical treasure (finely restored in recent years) and of its present-day superlative wine quality is régisseur Sylvain Pitiot, appointed in 1995. Annual production averages 2000 cases, with yields around 30 hectolitres/hectare. (Wine retained for the grand vin, for example from young vines, may come to market under the domaine`s Morey-Saint-Denis 1er cru La Forge label, a bottling of consistently excellent quality and value.) Pitiot`s sensitive interpretation and handling of these fabulous raw materials yield wines which reflect the naturally high sugar maturity of this `solar` site (often above 13.5% natural alcohol) while memorably transcribing aromatic nuance and textural detail. The geographical situation of Morey-Saint-Denis, twixt Gevrey-Chambertin and Chamolle-Musigny, incites commentators to pitch Le Clos de Tart halfway between the two. We find it leans more toward Chamolle, evoking Bonnes-Mares through its black fruit and minerality, and Musigny through its wonderfully refined perfume and tannin.
