A father-and-son team getting the most out of the Moulin-a-Vent appellation by diligent vineyard work – the domaine practises fully biodynamic viticulture or reduced-level intervention and includes a green harvest, which is a rarity in the Beaujolais – and long vinifications in large old wooden foudres to extract the tannins needed for the wine`s development in bottle. The exceptional sweetness and phenolic strength of top cuvée Clos du Tremblay endow it with the potential to last five years in bottle even if this violet-scented wine is already delicious at 18 months old. An address for ‘real’ Beaujolais fans and for those whose faith in the seriousness of cru Beaujolais needs restoring after too many lightweight and unambitious counter examples.
