The address for elemental Chablis - sublimating earth, oak and minerality - and the repository of old-fashioned ideas about respectful, ecologically-minded viticulture whose time has come again. VigneronVincent Dauvissat, with over 25 vintages already to his name, remains for many a model: modest, passionate and deeply informed about his region and his craft, energetically seeking, year after year, to capture an appellation truthfulness which owes nothing to passing Chardonnay fashions elsewhere. Blooming after five years in bottle, these wines, better than any others, give an insight into the mystery of the great terroirs of Chablis which create, in wines with half the body of a Meursault, complex, ethereal drinking sensations without rival in this grapetype.
